The vaunted K4600, famously known for its removable cards and width coil, and also television set origin. I would need to compile a whole instructional video for how to properly service these, but for now just take my word for it.
Key areas to reflow solder:
Signal header
Card headers
All ceramic resistors
Caution: In my experience you will observe an array of problems due to the breakdown of solder to the card header pins. As the adjustments are on the XY card, you may get weird issues like rolling screen or vertical collapse. Just my experience, reflowing the solder at the card header pins wasn’t sufficient. I’ve found you need to add solder, remove the old solder, and lay down new solder, thick. So that the card header strips don’t move at all, use the numbers on the pins to only do odds at a time, then evens. From the heat of the soldering iron, the pins can possibly lift out of the plastic strip, so I suggest doing this with the cards still installed.
Extra Super Caution: Do not attempt to physically remove the width coil to work on this monitor, as this is a fragile part and you will undoubtedly break it trying to pry it from the clips. An easier method to get the metal width coil tray out of the way that I’ve used was to mark one of the 2 width coil wires that solder to the posts with a sharpie and then just cut the wires off — then set the tray aside in a highly safe spot so it doesn’t get dropped. When you’re finished working, install the 4 screws to the plastic border back into the metal tray and strip and resolder the wires back to the posts last. Do remember to do this before you reinstall the chassis. There is no polarity at the width coil wires, but I like to put them back the way they came out.
Extra Super Mega Caution: The yoke is connected at the yoke assembly with 4 individual wires vs. the traditional and familiar arrangement where a plug normally plugs into the yoke header pins of the deflection board. The terminals on the yoke go in order B[lue] G[reen] Y[ellow] R[ed]. If you’re working in a dark arcade it’s pretty easy to mix blue and green up, which I have done before. This will short out the vertical deflection transistors, leaving the monitor in vertical collapse and they will therefore need to be replaced. The yoke horizontal pair wiring is red and blue, while the vertical pair is yellow and green. If you need to flip or mirror the image, you will have to do your own research for how to do this if you haven’t previously. See also: K4600 Hooked up Yoke Incorrectly
cap kit listing:
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Wells-Gardner K4600
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————-
Interface PCB
————-
C201 – 1000uf 16v
C203 – 470uf 16v (not found on all interface boards)
——-
X/Y PCB
——-
C306 – 2.2uf 50v
C310 – 22uf 25v
C311 – 1000uf 35v
C313 – 47uf 50v
C315 – 10uf 50v
C356 – 4.7uf 25v
C359 – 4.7uf 160v
C362 – 10uf 50v
———
Power PCB
———
C501 – 10uf 160v
C503 – 22uf 25v
————
Main Chassis
————
C608 – 47uf 160v
C613 – 220uf 25v
C614 – 33uf 25v
C617 – 1uf 50v
C619 – 1uf 50v
C622 – 1000uf 35v
C623 – 470uf 25v
C624 – 100uf 25v
C625 – 10uf 160v
C633 – 2.2uf 50v BP
Compiled by Modessitt
Provided by www.juniorsrevenge.com